i’m not in a theatre; i’m aboard the goldenpass express in switzerland. this state-of-the-art panoramic train features floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal breathtaking views of the swiss countryside. from turquoise lakes mirroring towering mountain peaks to rolling meadows dotted with picturesque chalets, the scenery rivals the grandest cinematic views. in the nine-seat prestige class carriage, with specially designed heated, swivelling chairs, i feel as though the snowcapped alps, wildflower-filled meadows, and bell-clad cows are mine alone.
launched in december 2022 and fully relaunched in june 2023, after addressing issues with track wear, the goldenpass express (gpx) is one of europe's newest, most luxurious high-tech trains. its 115-kilometer route connects interlaken's glaciers with montreux’s terraced vineyards, and thanks to groundbreaking technology, passengers can now experience one of the world’s most scenic train journeys without needing to transfer.
the gpx is one of five premium panoramic trains within the swiss travel system. tickets range from 56-145 swiss francs (roughly £50-130), and the swiss travel pass (starting from 244 swiss francs – about £219) includes unlimited public transport access, 50% off mountain railways and gondolas, and free entry to more than 500 museums. children under 16 travel free of charge.
the train’s midnight-blue exterior recalls the elegance of the original orient express, which still connects paris to istanbul. inside, the sleek, cutting-edge design features specially crafted prestige class chairs by pininfarina, the only rail seats of their kind in europe. need lower back support? there's a button for that. tired feet? elevate your legs. feeling chilly? press the seat warmer. want a new view? simply pivot your seat in the desired direction.
but what truly sets the gpx apart from other luxury trains is something unseen: its ability to smoothly transition between tracks with different gauges and voltages.
built by montreux-oberland-bernois railway (mob) in collaboration with bls ag, the gpx winds through the bernese alps, passing the exclusive town of gstaad, renowned for its isolation and celebrity appeal, and château d'oex, famous for its hot air balloon festival. the journey continues through vineyards before descending toward montreux and the sun-dappled shores of lake geneva.
when mob first envisioned the goldenpass line in 1905, its goal was to link the french-speaking montreux with the german-speaking interlaken. however, varying track gauges delayed the project, and it took over 100 years to find a solution.
global rail systems use a variety of track gauges, including broad, standard, and narrow. these differences were initially driven by terrain, transport needs, and political considerations, often resulting in necessary train transfers.
for years, the goldenpass line required two train changes, a major inconvenience for passengers. now, thanks to the revolutionary "variable gauge bogie" technology, the gpx can make the 3-hour, 15-minute journey directly without needing to switch trains. developed in 2022 after 15 years of research and costing 89 million swiss francs (£80 million), this groundbreaking innovation facilitates seamless transitions between narrow and standard gauges, as well as voltage changes, allowing the train to switch tracks while in motion.
frédéric delachaux, mob’s marketing director, described the gpx as a link between switzerland’s past and future, fulfilling the long-standing dream of connecting switzerland to europe by rail through the alps.
as i experienced the historic journey for the first time, i reluctantly left my comfortable seat where i was enjoying local cheeses (no full-service dining, but a selection of local snacks). we briefly paused for a locomotive change to accommodate the voltage shift, but the transition was so smooth, i barely noticed. moments later, we continued toward schönried, a ski resort near gstaad, with hardly a bump.
the elevation of the train changed subtly (about 200 mm) to accommodate the gauge shift, but this engineering feat went unnoticed by most passengers, unless they were keen train enthusiasts. "it’s frustrating for us in marketing because you don’t feel anything!” delachaux joked. perhaps the engineers succeeded too well, as the gauge change is only visible on a screen, showing passengers the process in real-time.
the gpx’s ability to shift 43 cm between gauges makes it the only train in the world with this capability, a stunning achievement that reflects switzerland’s long history of overcoming the challenges posed by its mountainous terrain.
as writer clarence rook observed in 1907, switzerland may not have the tallest mountains, but it’s a place where engineering triumphs are concentrated in a small space – and the goldenpass express is a testament to that ingenuity.